Bit of a broad base to cover this time – some of us have had very bad colds (including me) and the internet connections have been so flaky it just wasn’t worth bothering with. Now we’re finally in Iceland, recovering (hopefully in time for the race next Saturday), and have a strong internet connection.

Pax House, Dingle was just gorgeous – the breakfast was so quaint, little toast racks, a birdcage tea-strainer, everything made to order and most beautifully cooked, it was all like something out of a designer shabby chic book. Mine host, John, was busy cooking, so he suggested we load up the cars and head off on the self-guided tour, then come back and check out – how trusting is that? So that’s what we did.

When we first woke up, it was pouring rain – the bright sunshine that had greeted us the afternoon before was totally hidden – so Lisa and I didn’t bother running. As we set off on our tour, it was still misty rain but the islands and headlands were starting to poke through, and the weather improved along the way. It was spectacular scenery, winding around the cliff faces, and once going on a winding track right down to the beach which gave Chad the opportunity to give the BMW some stick going back up – he was in his element. We stopped and walked through a few ruins, and saw the oldest remaining Christian church in the world, called an Oratory. It was free to enter, just walk up the lane, but a National Parks employee at the gate handed us each a ticket – don’t know why. All the ruins are touchable, you can freely walk through, climb around and photograph anything.

We set off for Kilkenny along a combo of winding country roads, secondary roads and highway. It was too late to visit the Castle by the time we arrived, but we had a good view of the outside from our hotel window – right across the river. The fine dining restaurant was a bit stuffy when we arrived, by the time we left the waitress had all the Australian sayings down pat.  Food was very yummy, also the next morning’s breakfast. An early morning walk through the town and around the castle as usual, set us up for the day.

Because we had missed so much in Dublin due to the crowds and public holiday, we needed to get straight back there and couldn’t waste time in Kilkenny unfortunately – seems like most of our time away from Dublin was spent driving. Back in Dublin, checked in to our hotel down near the port, and the girls went to the laundrette while the men took the cars back. Then we finally went to see the Book of Kells, and how amazing is that? There were also several other illuminated books, one of which was so tiny that we couldn’t even see the letters with our glasses on. There was a theory that the monks had used crystals to magnify the page, but it seems that that would distort the work. The Library where the books live is also magnificent, but much more recent, having been renovated over the years. It is filled with millions of leather-bound volumes, all of which are still in use as reference for anyone who needs them. Very tall ladders are used to reach them.

We wandered around the old Georgian section of town for a while, inspecting an old bank which used to be the House of Parliament, once again very accessible, just walk in, sit on the seats, take photos etc. By then those who were sick (i.e. Deb and me) were starting to fail, so we bought tickets for one of the big red buses, sat up the top in the sun (and it was hot) and did the whole circuit.

The ferry terminal wasn’t far away, so next morning a maxi taxi got us there in no time flat. I had a little nap on the waiting room chairs, then found a lovely comfy couch onboard. What a great ship – just like a cruise liner, ultra luxurious and very stable. Not that its stability was at all tested, the crossing was dead flat. After all the warnings we’d had about the Irish Sea! At Holyhead the change to the train was easy, and then again (on the advice of a kindly guard) at another unpronounceable Welsh station along the way. Our Manchester hotel was just around the corner from the hotel, so it all fitted together perfectly.

Back on the train next morning and off to the airport, nice and early to put Chad’s mind at rest – he was freaked out by the situation at Charles de Gaulle! Of course Manchester was calm and quiet, the plane took off on time, and we landed safely in Iceland. Only to find that, being such a small airport, there was no airbridge and we needed to walk across the tarmac. OK, no problem, but it was blowing a howling gale and raining, luckily not too heavily. Out came the coats and umbrellas, what a hoot! Welcome to Iceland! We found the shuttle, bought tickets, and checked into the hotel.

When I made the bookings with Extreme Iceland, I was just judging them by reports on TripAdvisor  and other forums, as well as their own website, so it was difficult to know how genuine they were. We’d paid them about $4000 deposit (2/3 of the total), and until we checked in at the hotel and it all worked seamlessly, then I phoned Bjorn, and yes welcome, we’ll pick you up at 9am – I was reassured that it was all above board!

The hotel is very basic, apparently standard here, but warm and comfortable. We didn’t even need to turn the heater on, and only were supplied with one light doona each (single beds). Of course the openable window was open, but we had to shut the curtains because the sky is too light all night long. Every time I woke up, I had to have a peek to see how light it was – not quite light enough to read by, more like very bright moonlight. Although it was cloudy, so would be brighter if the sky was clear. This morning the rain had stopped, so our walk took us through the Botanical Gardens where we saw a flock of big brown geese, and some Icelandic horses. Breakfast was interesting – cold cuts, different breads and spreads, fresh fruit, and soured milk which I tasted – it wasn’t sour at all, nothing like yoghurt. I can’t wait to try skyr, local yoghurt. Also an urn of hot chocolate, much too sweet, and a bottle of cod liver oil with little disposable cups to drink it. Of course it’s made in Iceland. Anyway, all healthy fare, so we won’t starve.

Hope I can update along the way, but no guarantees. Off we go!